tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59804334199062306952024-02-20T10:58:59.617-08:00Tech Support SolutionsSCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-64579974685909058882009-09-15T10:24:00.001-07:002009-09-15T10:24:13.471-07:00How To Create a Home Network.<ol id="intelliTxt"><h4 class="Heading4a">Set Up File Sharing</h4><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>1</span></div> <p>Double-click on My Computer.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>2</span></div> <p>Right-click on icons of drives to be shared by network users.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>3</span></div> <p>Click Properties.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>4</span></div> <p>Click Share As. Enter the appropriate information.</p> </li><h4 class="Heading4a">Learn What Hardware Is Needed</h4><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>1</span></div> <p>Do your homework on the Internet for a basic understanding of the technology. A good place to start is a major search engine like Google or Yahoo!.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>2</span></div> <p>Purchase the required hardware and cabling for the type of network you want to use. If the network doesn't yet exist, decide on a network type: for a client/server network, you need a hub to connect the computer to; for a peer-to-peer network, you just need a cable. Then choose the data-transfer protocol (typically Ethernet) for the network you select.</p> </li><h4 class="Heading4a">Install Hardware</h4><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>1</span></div> <p>Install a network interface card (NIC), if your computer or other network devices don't already have them.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>2</span></div> <p>Install the "T" (normally supplied with the card) onto the back of the connector on the card.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>3</span></div> <p>Attach the network cable to one connector on the "T."</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>4</span></div> <p>Attach a 50-ohm terminator to the other end if necessary.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>5</span></div> <p>Connect the cable to another computer's network card, for a peer-to-peer network; to a network connector or switch, if the network is already set up in a building; or to a hub, for a client/server network.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>6</span></div> <p>Restart the computer.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>7</span></div> <p>Install the network driver for the network card you installed.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>8</span></div> <p>Name the new computer to be networked. Enter a user name and password when prompted. Use information provided by your network administrator, if any, or create your own.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>9</span></div> <p>Check to make sure the system is working.</p> </li><li> <div class="stepBg">Step <span>10</span></div> <p>Enable sharing if you wish to share data with other <a itxtdid="12608826" target="_blank" href="http://www.ehow.com/how_3659_connect-computers-network.html#" style="border-bottom: 0.075em solid darkgreen ! important; font-weight: normal ! important; font-size: 100% ! important; text-decoration: underline ! important; padding-bottom: 1px ! important; color: darkgreen ! important; background-color: transparent ! important; background-image: none; padding-top: 0pt; padding-right: 0pt; padding-left: 0pt;" classname="iAs" class="iAs">computers</a> on the network (see steps below).</p> </li></ol>SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-31612252208698774552009-09-14T10:51:00.000-07:002009-09-14T10:53:29.951-07:00Cisco VPN WorkaroundFree solution to get your VPN working on Vista 64. Got to <a href="http://sourceforge.net/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">http://sourceforge.net</a> and download VPNC Front End. Makes connecting to your company VPN easy. It even has a PCF import tool to setup the connection. The import tool can be found after opening VPNC Front End you right click on it on the taskbar section (by the clock) and you should see an import option, if you aren't able to right click close out of the program if it on your desktop. You just need to make sure you selet the TAP Device as the Network interface and you're good to go. Took me 2 hours of fishing for this answer and 5-10 mins to set it up. Very happy so far. As always any questions on how to do any of this just ask.SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-8092617489748110502009-09-04T06:57:00.000-07:002009-09-04T07:00:16.100-07:00OldFallout 3Taken from <a href="http://www.bethsoft.com/bgsforums/index.php?showtopic=904034&st=0&start=0" target="_blank">http://www.bethsoft.com/bgsforums/index.php?showtopic=904034&st=0&start=0</a> and restored to its former glory!<br /><br /><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:25pt;" ><b><span style="color:red;">READ THIS POST BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS!<br /><br />POSSIBLE SPOILERS INSIDE</span></b></span><br /><br /><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:20pt;" ><span style="color:blue;"><b>MAIN PROJECT</b></span></span><br /><br />We have the official word from Bethesda that they use "some" (SM2.0b implied) shaders that 9x00, and similiar SM2.0 cards, can't run.<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="color:white;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:15pt;" >Primary goal</span></span></b><br />Getting the game up and running without crashing. Current progress here has been through disabling things.<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="color:white;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:15pt;" >Secondary goal</span></span></b><br />Making it look and run as good as possible. Probably includes work on the shaders and re-enabling things.<br /><br /><br />Please keep your criticisms to a minimum. If you do not wish to get involved, then don't, but please don't be a dick about it. This is supposed to be a fun challenge.<br /><br />Thanks <span style="color:purple;"><i>everyone</i></span> for shown interest and help. Keep it up.<br /><br /><br /><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:15pt;" ><span style="color:blue;"><b>INSTRUCTIONS</b></span></span><br /><br /><br /><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:12pt;" ><span style="color:black;">1. Settings in the .ini files</span></span> <span style="color:limegreen;">(mydocuments/mygames/fallout3 - if not there, run launcher once)</span><br /><br />fallout.ini<br />falloutprefs.ini<br /><br />Search both files (ctrl-f in notepad) for the word "decal". Every line it appears in, change the value at the end to =0<br /><br />Also search both files and change bUseFaceGenHeads=0.<br /><br /><br /><br />If you screw these two files up, remember you can always delete them and run the launcher again to recreate them and start over.<br />If your game starts to crash at any time in the game, despite having previously worked - go back and doublecheck all decal settings again.<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:12pt;" ><span style="color:white;">2. Shader package</span></span></b> (C:\Program Files\Bethesda Softworks\Fallout 3\Data\Shaders)<br /><br />Claviticus modified shaderpackage008 - unpack and copy to folder <a href="http://www.shiftyspace.com/fallback/Claviticus%20modified%20shaderpackage008%20v1.rar" target="_blank">Primary</a>; <a href="http://www.megaupload.com/?d=F5X3YSNE" target="_blank">Mirror</a><br /><br /><br />An alternative is copying an existing shaderpackage and renaming it shaderpackage008. SP7 seems to be the best for 9x00. This is not recommended and <span style="color:red;">only</span> for progress & testing.<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="color:white;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:12pt;" >3. Saves</span></span></b> <span style="color:limegreen;">(mydocuments/mygames/fallout3/saves - if the folder doesn't exist, create it)</span><br /><br />Needed to bypass the mandatory 1 year baby crash, and other crashes. Thanks BumpInTheNight & Shadowics.<a href="http://www.shiftyspace.com/fallback/shadowics%20saves%20-%20large.rar" target="_blank">Primary</a>; <a href="http://www.megaupload.com/?d=ETMR4Y25" target="_blank">Mirror</a>; <a href="http://www.megaupload.com/?d=IHDEVAO3" target="_blank">Old smaller package</a><br /><br /><br /><span style="color:purple;">ALL DONE!</span> It should work for you now. If it does not work, you probably screwed up. Doublecheck, try again and if it doesn't help, come back and ask us for help here. Files hosted with Shifty99 - Big thanks!<br /><br /><b><span style="color:blue;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:20pt;" >CURRENT PROGRESS</span></span></b><br /><br /><b><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:20pt;" ><span style="color:blue;">Watch the Fallback project - Milestone 1</span></span></b><br /><br /> <div style="overflow: auto; width: 100%;"><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/n0oms92dOfw&rel=1" wmode="transparent" quality="high" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="never" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" width="425px" height="350px"></embed><noembed>&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/n0oms92dOfw&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;rel=1" target="_blank"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;http://www.youtube.com/v/n0oms92dOfw&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;rel=1&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;</noembed><br /><br /><br /><i>And on the pedestal these words appear:<br />"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:<br />Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"<br />Nothing beside remains: round the decay<br />Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare,<br />The lone and level sands stretch far away.</i><br /><br />- Percy Bysshe Shelley<br /><br /><br />Archived threads:<br /><a href="http://www.bethsoft.com/bgsforums/index.php?showtopic=897841" target="_blank">http://www.bethsoft.com/bgsforums/index.php?showtopic=897841</a><br /><br /><br /><b><span style="color:blue;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:20pt;" >TOOLS</span></span></b><br /><br />Theese are <span style="color:red;">not</span> for functionality but rather for further progress and are <span style="color:red;">not</span> needed to play the game<br /><br /><a href="http://timeslip.chorrol.com/temp/fomm.zip" target="_blank">http://timeslip.chorrol.com/temp/fomm.zip</a>Timeslip's Fallout shader editor Used for rewriting the shaders, and recompile them to 2.0/1.x, etc. Timeslips page<br /><br /><a href="http://www.tweakguides.com/Oblivion_8.html" target="_blank">http://www.tweakguides.com/Oblivion_8.html</a>.ini settings explained (Oblivion) Thanks for mentioning it Checkist<br /><br /><a href="http://www.tweakguides.com/Fallout3_1.html" target="_blank">Fallout 3 Tweak Guide</a><br /><br /><a href="http://fose.silverlock.org/Fallout3Commands.html#Console_Commands" target="_blank">http://fose.silverlock.org/Fallout3Commands.html#Console_Commands</a> Fallout 3 Console commands; <a href="http://fose.silverlock.org/" target="_blank">http://fose.silverlock.org/</a> Fallout script extender - FOSE mainpage<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:20pt;" ><span style="color:blue;">LINKS</span></span></b><br /><br /><a href="http://www.oldblivion.com/sm/index.php?topic=5831.0" target="_blank">Oldblivion thread</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.paolofranchini.com/shshock/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=369&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a" target="_blank">Shadershock thread</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.shadershock.tk/" target="_blank">Shadershock - the main forum for the Bioshock SM3.0 ->SM2.0 project</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.oldblivion.com/" target="_blank">Oldblivion - the main page for the Oblivion SM2.0 -> SM1.1 project</a><br /><br />Google "shader how to" - for tons of information on shaders<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:20pt;" ><span style="color:blue;">UNRESOLVED ISSUES</span></span></b><br /><br /><span style="line-height: 1.3em; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:15pt;" >2.0b shaders<br /><br />Nodecals<br />Noheads<br />Conversations<br /><br />Arufu entering house/quest CTD (location lockout, questbreaking)<br />Nuking megaton CTD (questbreaking)<br />Emergency signal CTD (storyline breaking)<br />Georgetown West CTD (location lockout)</span><br /><br /><br /><b><span style="color:blue;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:20pt;" >WORKAROUND ISSUES</span></span></b><br /><br /><b><span style="color:white;">HeadCTD</span></b><br />Naaldi mentioned that by setting bUseFaceGenHeads=0 in fallout.ini, you avoid a whole ton of crashes. However, this comes with the drawback of everyone loosing their head. Literally. Kudos to duri83<br /><br /><b><span style="color:white;">AttackCTD</span></b><br />Pipboy pointed out that searching for the word "decal" in fallout.ini, and changing their values to = 0 avoids alot of the crashing on "attacking diffrent things/surfaces"<br /><br /><b><span style="color:white;">1 year later CTD</span></b><br />Use the provided savegame packages to bypass this issue<br /><br /><br /><b><span style="color:blue;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:20pt;" >RESOLVED ISSUES</span></span></b><br /><br /><b><span style="color:white;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;font-size:15pt;" >"Play" CTD</span></span></b><br />Our russian friends taught us that the reason why ATi Radeon 9x00 users get a CTD is because the game assigns us to shaderpackage nr8, wich doens't exist. As Beth has pointed out, they did not include SM2.0 support, wich is supposedly what would be in shaderpackage nr8. What we need to do is provide the game with a shaderpackage.</div>SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-6755273465355127602009-08-21T08:15:00.001-07:002009-08-24T04:31:27.580-07:00How to Fix Your XBox 360's Joysticks<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">First review how to open/clean your XBox 360 Controller,</span> <a style="color: rgb(51, 51, 255);" href="http://techsupportsolutions.blogspot.com/search/label/Dissasembling%20your%20360%20Controller.">here</a></span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">Symptoms:</span> My stick is flacid, lol. There is no resistance or there is too much. Sometimes I will hit 'bumps' when moving my joystick. My joysticks alternate button doesn't push down or click properly. My joystick moves very slowly or is unresponsive.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);font-size:180%;" >Fix for All XBox 360 Joystick Issues.</span><br /><br />After you have taken the controller apart the first thing you want to do as always is clean the joysticks base thoroughly. Including the "press down" button on the joystick, which is located on the <span style="font-weight: bold;">right side of the joystick's base</span>, also the inside should be cleaned with a Q-Tip and if available, canned air to blow out any debris. Once it is cleaned thoroughly, check to see if the problem is still there. Double check for any debris by rotating the stick 360 degrees slowly. For any obstructions that may need to be removed.<br /><br />If the problem is to due with the joysticks movement and cleaning it thoroughly didn't fix it then you might need to replace the joystick, you can find that guide <span style="font-weight: bold;">here.</span> All it requires is an original XBox controller that you don't mind taking apart. Many pro's prefer using the older style sticks due to their extreme sensitivity compared to the 360's model.<br /><br />If the problem is a stick/malfunctioning joystick "button" look closely at what is happening when you press down the button on the joystick, check for any sticky gunk surrounding the button on the right side. If any gunk is there that is more then likely causing the issue and a simple cleaning will fix it. Otherwise it could be a bad spring, check to see if pressing the button directly (instead of the stick itself) makes it click, if not you will need to replace the entire unit and that guide can be found here.<br /><br />If this didn't solve your issue and you have any questions about the steps please leave a comment with the steps you have taken and I will try to assist you further.SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-50159844742257764942009-08-20T10:35:00.000-07:002009-08-20T11:05:26.822-07:00XBox 360 Wireless Controller's battery wont charge.<span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);font-size:130%;" >Symptoms:</span> I have left my xbox wireless controller for a couple weeks or months now when i go to turn it on it wont do anything. OR i plug it in and the charge light comes on for a couple seconds and then turns right off.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);font-size:180%;" >Fix for Most it wont charge issues.</span><br /><br />Most times a battery can be saved from the clutches of dead battery-dom by a simple trick. What you do is plug it in wait a couple seconds and when the charge light turns off, unplug it and plug it back in. You might need to <span style="font-weight: bold;">repeat this 15-20 times</span> which can be a pain, but compared to dishing out another 20+ bucks for a battery, this is by far the lesser of the two evils.<br /><br />If this didn't solve your issue and you have any questions about the steps please leave a comment with the steps you have taken and I will try to assist you further.SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-75106465723444485182009-08-20T06:30:00.000-07:002009-08-20T10:29:59.344-07:00XBox 360 Bumper doesn't work.<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">First review how to open/clean your XBox 360 Controller, <a style="color: rgb(51, 51, 255);" href="http://techsupportsolutions.blogspot.com/search/label/Cleaning%20an%20Xbox%20360%20Controller">here</a></span></span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);font-size:130%;" >Symptoms:</span> My right bumper is sticking when i push it. My left bumper only works some times. The bumper seems loose or doesn't make the click noise when I push it down.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);font-size:180%;" >Fixes For Problematic XBox 360 Bumpers.</span><br /><br />After you take apart the controller using the above guide you will see on the circuit board <span style="font-weight: bold;">two white buttons facing forward</span> (next to the left joystick and the other next to the "Y" button). These are the actual buttons that are being depressed when you go to press RB or LB (right bumper, left bumper).<br /><br />First we want to make sure these are <span style="font-weight: bold;">cleaned thoroughly</span> and no debris is caught in or around the button. If it is sticky I would use a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol to remove the gunk. After making sure the button is clean, press it down. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Do you hear a click</span>? If you don't that means the button itself is messed up and short of taking it to a repair shop it's done. If it does click, we can continue working on it. <br /><br />Next we need to see if the RB/LB "shield" is working, this is what you are pressing when you are using the controller normally. First clean this thoroughly and check for any issues, such as broken or chipped off plastic pieces. There should be <span style="font-weight: bold;">two cross looking plastic pieces</span> coming out maybe a quarter of an inch. If the piece is missing on either side you will need to replace the shield, or find something to replace the cross piece with. Put the circuit board back on the bottom half of the controller. Place the shield like it normally would be in front of the RB/LB buttons, press the LB or RB button, listen for the click. If it clicked then it is making solid contact. If not then the shield might need to be replaced. You can get replacement parts online much cheaper then going to buy a whole new controller.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">If the RB/LB button is sticking down after depressing it</span>, check to see if it is springy at all. You should be able to hold the shield in your hands and <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">gently press on each side</span>, it should have a little resistance and spring back to normal. If it does not do this then you will need to replace the shield. If you find that it is working fine, clean around the shield on the face plates of the controller, any gunk there is probably causing the issue. Put the controller back together and check to make sure every thing is working properly<br /><br />If this didn't solve your issue and it's not a broken part or if you have any questions about the steps please leave a comment with the steps you have taken and I will try to assist you further.SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-66982422892459637052009-08-19T17:02:00.000-07:002009-08-19T17:41:34.510-07:00XBox 360 Controller button gets stuck or doesn't work all the time.<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><span style="font-weight: bold;">First review how to open/clean your XBox 360 Controller</span>, </span><a style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" href="http://techsupportsolutions.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-to-take-apart-your-xbox-360.html">here</a></span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);font-size:130%;" ><br />Symptoms:</span> My controller's button works sometimes or after i press it it will stay held down for a while even after I stop touching it. Or my button feels like it is getting hard to press down, sometimes it sticks. Or my button doesn't work every now and again.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;"><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">Fixes for All XBox 360 Controller Buttons.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:100%;">After the controller is completely taken apart locate the button giving you trouble. Clean it thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab or q-tip. Any hard to get grime might be easier to remove with a finger nail as not to damage the button itself. If the button your having issues with is the guide button there is a small clear/black piece that is also part of the button, this needs to cleaned as well. After it's smooth and clean, check the rubber pad it rests on. Notice any grime/filth/muck? Clean it as well using the same methods, even soap and water if it is a big mess. Next we are to the circuit board, only use sparing amounts of rubbing alcohol and a q-tip for this, gently remove any dirt and debris until it is fully cleaned. The last thing that needs to be cleaned is the faceplate of the controller, make sure to get the hole as well as half an inch around the hole for any debris that might be affecting it. Put the controller back together and check to see if the issue is corrected, if it still persists the last two possibilities are a loose button or a bad circuit board. If it is a loose button try stuffing a small amount of toilet paper or even better card stock from business cards you might have around the house, the less the better and </span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" >make sure it stays seated on the rubber NOT the circuit board.</span><span style="font-size:100%;"> If this still doesn't fix it your only choice is a new controller.<br /><br />If this didn't solve your issue and you don't believe it to be a circuit board issue or if you have any questions about the steps please leave a comment with the steps you have taken and I will try to assist you further.</span>SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-27360067250120994852009-08-19T15:26:00.000-07:002009-08-19T16:52:38.663-07:00Fixes for your XBox 360 Controller Mic<span style="font-size:130%;"><br /><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><span style="font-weight: bold;">First review how to open/clean your XBox 360 Controller</span>, </span><a style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" href="http://techsupportsolutions.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-to-take-apart-your-xbox-360.html">here</a></span><br /><br /><br />Symptoms: You can hear people on your mic's headset but cannot communicate back, you have toggled the mute button a hundred times and it doesn't seem to matter. Also you might completely loose voice/sound from the mic/headset but it works on another controller. WTF Mate?<br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51); font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" ><br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;">Fixes for both Wired and Wireless Controllers Mic</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br /><br />The hardest part here is figuring out if it is the Mic or if it is the Controller. If you have two different mics or controllers, what you should do is plug the possibly defective mic into both controllers, if it works in one but not the other then we can probably fix it. If it doesn't work in either than you probably don't have a working mic. You can double check this by buying a new mic or borrowing one from a friend, if it still doesn't work it's a bad mic.<br /><br />The problem is probably a loose connection in the controller, you first want to follow the instructions in the link above to disassemble the controller. After it is taken apart you can begin the work. At the base of the circuit board (the thin green plate) you will see where you would normally plug the mic in. There is a metal bracket in there that not only holds the mic in place when plugged in but completes the circuit. Normally the bracket becomes loose enough that it will no longer transmit your voice even if you can hear others. Find a toothpick or simmilar object (nothing too big or you might break the bracket). <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> </span><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">!!Warning if done improperly you can break the bracket completely!! </span>Gently insert the toothpick into the mic plug from the inside (normally you plug it in facing towards the guide button, do the opposite of that) catching the metal bracket and bending it slightly down. Leave it wedged into the bracket for <span style="font-weight: bold;">30 minutes to an hour</span> to have the bracket re-seat itself properly. You should now have a working controller and be able to continue your smack talk on xbox.<br /><br />If this didn't fix it more than likely it's not the controller but the mic itself. Double check the diagnosing it section, if you are 100% positive it is the controller please leave a comment with the steps you have taken and I will try to assist you further.SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5980433419906230695.post-90162739732906264902009-08-19T05:18:00.000-07:002009-08-19T17:01:33.927-07:00How to take apart your Xbox 360 Controller<span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:180%;"><span style="color: rgb(51, 255, 51);">How to take apart your Xbox 360 Controller</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">What you will need to start.</span><br /></span><ol><li><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Phillips Screwdriver <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">or</span> T8 Security Screwdriver.</span></span></li><li><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Flat Head Screwdriver<br /></span></span></li><li><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Q-Tips </span></span></li><li><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Rubbing Alcohol<br /></span></span></li></ol><span style="font-size:130%;"><br /><br />A Philips for a wired controller or a T8 (torx 8) screwdriver. If you have the wireless it has to be the security T8, it has a hole in the middle. This was the hardest part for me as the T8 is an oddball and most retailers don't carry it in stock. I ended up buying mine off E-Bay for 7 bucks USD.<br />Also you should have some Q-Tips and Rubbing Alcohol, if your as OCD as me at least, alternatively fingernails work just as well for most gunk.<br /><br />First we will need to remove the battery pack or unplug it from the 360 if using a wireless or wired controller respectively.<br /><br />Now the real fun begins we can start deconstructing the little bugger and get down to business.<br /><br />You will need the T8 for the wireless or a normal Phillips for the wired. I would recommend doing this all by hand and not using any kind of drill.</span><span style="font-size:130%;"><br /><br />You will have 7 screws you need to remove; 3 on each side and </span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >one hidden under the bar code </span><span style="font-size:130%;">below the battery pack. The first 6 are located under the hand grip of the controller and should be very simple to locate.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Make sure to place the screws in some place they wont be lost!</span><span style="font-size:130%;"> A bottle cap, plastic bag, or a DVD case works great for me. After all screws are removed you will need to separate the two sides. </span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >If there is any resistance double check that you have 7 screws removed!</span><span style="font-size:130%;"> After that has been ensured you can use a flat head screw driver or your finger nails will work fine here too. Be careful when separating the controller cause the buttons will go everywhere. I recommend a table or the floor so pieces don't go every where.<br /><br />Now we are into the meat and potatoes of the controller, you should see a big green board with rubber seating for the buttons on it, you can remove this. Pull up the greay knobs from their seating, be gentle here and hold the base. After everything is removed from the green circuit board you may remove this as well.<br /><br />After the controller is deconstructed (don't deconstruct the D-Pad unless your sure there is an issue there) get your Q-Tip's and start cleaning the gunk. I would focus on the black circles on the circuit board, the rubber seating we pulled of earlier that lays over the black circles and the joy stick knobs as well as seats.<br /><br />For the controller's plating (the outside) I would get a wet cloth and wipe it down, pay attention to the joy stick, button and the guide area holes, as these can cause sticking and rough movement.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">MAKE SURE THE CONTROLLER IS COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE USING IT</span></span><br /><br />Depending on your gaming habits you might want to repeat this as often as every month.<br /><br />In my next guide I will discuss how to repair some common issues found with the controllers.</span>SCCMWalkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17917604483474254041noreply@blogger.com0